Don’t really fancy getting reminded every few steps by a menacing graffiti that you’re not welcome there, walking the streets of Madrid, or even chased down the streets of La Rambla, Barcelona, by angry locals brandishing water pistols?
Neither do we, but we can’t stay away from beautiful, sun-drenched Spain.
That’s why this summer, we’re avoiding the Mediterranean altogether and heading North to a lesser-known Asturias: from the verdant countryside, to the quaint coastal villages, and every ancient monument in between, it’s Spain’s most underrated province.
Oh, and the good news is, instead of chasing foreigners away, they’re actually doubling down on tourist promotion after seeing a surprising 42% uptick in visitors last year:
Welcome To Asturias:
Perhaps Spain’s Last-Truly Unspoiled Region
Asturias has never been exactly a tourism powerhouse, unlike Catalonia, Andalusia, or the Balearic Islands (home to the jam-packed Mallorca and Ibiza, in case the name doesn’t ring a bell).
It straddles the much-colder, windier, rainier northern coast of Spain, it has no obvious major resort destinations, and the limited connectivity of Asturias Airport (OVD), which hosts flights mostly from domestic and a select number of European hubs, has all helped keep it lowkey and secret.
Well, it seems the Asturian administration is now aiming for an international breakthrough.
Not Mallorca-levels of crowding, and no Barcelona-style gentrification, but a much-needed boost in tourist numbers for one of Spain’s least-visited regions.
While the southern coast sees tens of millions of guests year in, year out, Asturias records an average of 2.5 million guests a year… most of which come from Spain.
Wondering where all the unexplored potential is all about?
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A Gorgeous Capital City Exuding Ancient Charm
A good place to start is Oviedo, the Asturian capital, named Spain’s best alternative to the Been-There-Done-That cities.
Oviedo Cathedral is a soaring Gothic gem built back in the Middle Ages, best known for its Cámara Santa (Holy Chamber), a treasure chest of Christian relics.
It stands in the heart of the Casco Antiguo (Old Town), your typical maze-like medieval core:
Think pedestrianized thoroughfares lined with stunning ocher-colored buildings, dotted with plazas dominated by imposing churches, and boasting that undeniable ancient flair you can only find in Southern Europe.
A 30-minute walk from the center of action, Iglesia de Santa María del Naranco is the must-see UNESCO-protected landmark: completed around 848 AD, it’s one of the best-preserved examples of pre-Romanesque architecture still surviving to this day.
Don’t miss the lesser-known San Miguel de Lillo, an equally ancient 9th-century church right next door.
Gijón: The Coastal Getaway
Set along the Asturian Coast, Gijón is where Asturians go in summer for beaches, fresh seafood, and homemade cider. Truly, you haven’t been to Asturias until you’ve tried the local cider.
This is nothing short of the perfect North Spain postcard, with the long seafront walk unfolding along a golden-sand beach, Playa de San Lorenzo, an old hilltop neighborhood that traces its origins back to a fishing village, Cimavilla, and a beautiful central square, Plaza Mayor, ringed by café terraces.
Looking for the best sidrería in town?
Sidrería La Costa pours some genuinely great cider and dishes out solid Asturian bar fare: bean stew with chorizo, cachopos (my personal favorite, a giant-breaded meat sandwich), and Chorizo a la sidra. The name is self-explanatory.
Oh, and no impatient waiters that just look cross half the time for having to brush up on their English, nor anti-tourism graffiti anywhere in sight.
If you don’t mind a little uphill walk, Elogio del Horizonte is a massive concrete, portal-like sculpture designed by Eduardo Chillida, a famous Basque artist. It’s brutalist-core, and perhaps ugly to some, but it’s perched on a prominent hill, almost acting as a window to the coast, and the views are what counts.
Peace & Quiet? In Spain?
The heart of Asturias is its scenic coastline, interspersed with quaint fishing towns. One of those, Llanes, has cobbled streets, stone houses, and a medieval vibe coupled with a seaside promenade that make it that much more charming.
Cudillero is that tiny, colorful Asturian pueblo clinging to small coastal cliffs. The houses are literally stacked on hillsides, and the local pintxo bars are known for their delicious grilled fish and draught beer. On that note, a sit-down meal here is unlikely to cost you over $17.
Asturias is one of the cheapest regions to travel in Spain, especially in smaller towns.
Ribadesella is that lively coastal town at the mouth of the Sella River, famous for its annual canoeing competition, folk and beer festivals, and compact (yet beautiful) Historic Center. Craving somewhere even more offbeat, though?
Cangas de Onís, a little inland from the coast, has stone bridges, including a Roman one over the Sella, and it’s a short 30-minute drive to the Asturian section of Picos de Europa. That’s Spain’s mini Switzerland, by the way.
Towering peaks, serene mirror-like lakes you can swim in, and plenty of rural villages tucked away in deep valleys, with small sidrerías and quaint medieval churches.
Check Travel Rules Before Heading To Spain This Year
Heading to Spain this year?
You should know entry rules for Americans heading to Europe are changing in the near future. This summer, you could be subject to mandatory fingerprinting upon landing at select EU hubs, and later in the year, you will need to apply for a mandatory travel permit ahead of flying.
Naturally, this includes Asturias-bound travel.
Stay up to date with travel regulations by double-checking the Travel Off Path Traveler Dashboard before jetting off:
Stacie Harris is a local resident and reporter of the Maple Grove area. Stacie reports on medicine and science for the Maple Grove Report.
