This Costa Rican All-Inclusive Has A Black-Sand Cove & Secret Beach Next Door


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Man, I wanted to like this resort. I really did.

But it turns out I fell in love at first sight like a Tinder date gone wrong.

No exaggeration: Secrets Papagayo is one of my favorite resorts I’ve ever stayed at, and not for the obvious reasons.

If we’re being honest, many vacationers splurging on 5-star all-inclusives like Papagayo spend more time nitpicking than actually savoring the moment.

God forbid there’s a speck of dust in the corner of the room, ya know?

Black-Sand Cove at Secrets Papagayo resort

Even the bougiest, Botoxed, lip-injected Beverly Hills know-it-all would be forced to admit this adults-only haven is about as flawless as it gets for a decades-old property that has remarkably stood the test of time — and actually feels Costa Rican.

Some resorts barely reflect their destination, as if they’re simply extensions of America designed around the guests who stay there.

Here, monkeys howl from the canopy, iguanas are welcomed just as warmly as people, and the ashy sands of the resort’s volcanic cove spill into the calm, clear waters of Culebra Bay.

It’s “Pique Season” At Secrets Papagayo

Maybe I’m crazy, but I’ve never understood how a calendar can determine your trip.

I’ve loved Chicago in January just as much as those who love going to Wrigley on a humid summer day, and now I’ve fallen in love with this resort during Costa Rica’s shoulder season.

Sunset hike at Secrets Papagayo

Weather can be mood here, and not in the way you think. Oftentimes, it can quite literally rain on your parade during your vacation, but this region of Guanacaste seemed like they were contacting indigenous tribes to properly rain dance, as the usual dense green forestry was bare.

Don’t worry, though — it’s not enough to be an eyesore for your photos.

Peak season, when perfect weather and higher prices are the norm, tends to run from December through April. I hit it just right in May, switching into “pique” season, where crowds have dispersed and you can do anything that piques your interest without fighting everyone else for a spot.

Want to go for a guided sunset hike?

Belen, a true rockstar on staff, leading the charge for everything from hiking tours to karaoke and a possibly drunken version of “musical chairs”, snagged me a spot before I could blink.

Kayaking to a secret beach next door?

No problem booking the same day I found out about it.

Last-minute massage?

Massage at Secrets Papagayo
Image courtesy of Secrets Papagayo

I was asked to strip down and go face down before I could say “Secrets Papagayo” 3 times fast.

It is kinda fun to say, isn’t it?

Dinner reservations?

Don’t need ’em. Even the one on-site restaurant Himitsu requiring them (for Hibachi/Teppanyaki only) was able to hook me up 30 minutes beforehand, though it’s possible I simply lucked out…

It didn’t matter what I requested, I received speedy service and an all-but-guaranteed spot for whatever piqued my interest in the moment, something I’d never experienced at other resorts.

Stay, Your Way

This is the part where I could embed a Frank Sinatra song, but licensing that would probably cost more than I’m paid to write this.

The point is, this was the best resort I’ve stayed at for truly making your vacation your own, on your own time — whether you’re an adrenaline junkie or someone who wants to waste away at the swim-up bar ( Manatees).

So, naturally, I did both.

The excursions couldn’t have been more fun, even as someone who traveled here solo amidst a sea of couples celebrating everything from new love to graduations.

On days I wanted to recharge, that’s when I requested a massage and was booked in no time, as well as a fish spa service — you know, like the ones you’ve probably seen in Asia.

The massage was just what the doctor ordered, and the setting couldn’t have been more serene: an outdoor thatched hut with waves crashing in the background after I’d already made use of the sauna and jacuzzi.

Any stresses Manatees’ spot-on caipirinhas didn’t cure melted away instantly.

Beyond that, I loved my spacious room, which seemed to have been remodeled in recent years, along with the elevated bay views from the patio — and the occasional reptile friend stopping by.

Iguanas live in the nooks and crannies of the property and come out to tan and fill up on bugs every so often, but even for the squeamish, it’s more of a quirky cameo than anything that will gross you out.

Hey, you’re in Costa Rica.

Pool and palm trees at Secrets Papagayo resort

When I felt recharged and craved a change of scenery, there were plenty of options, including guided trips across the border to Nicaragua.

This was the one strike: the minimum group size is 8, and if you fall short, you’re stuck paying a hefty four-figure fee to go private.

No gracias. Maybe next time.

Instead, I opted to go kayaking, something I haven’t done in years due to a bad back, but ya boy’s been working out.

Many guests don’t realize there is a secret beach next door, not reachable by walking due to the high tide.

Check in with the activities desk near the pool and reserve your spot by simply providing your room number and signing a waiver.

It was awesome — just 4 of us paddling through paradise to ashy black-sand shores we had all to ourselves.

View from room at Secrets Papagayo

Well, almost all to ourselves, if you count the legend of a crocodile lurking in the small lagoon, who thankfully decided to sit this one out…

We picked and ate fresh tamarindo, learned the history of the beach, and some very valuable pointers for kayaking more safely and effectively.

Keep in mind, there are some pesky vendors outside the property line who offer jet-ski rentals.

All of Costa Rica’s pristine coastline is public, so you can stay on this particular beach longer if you opt to rent a jet ski for a triple-digit sum on your own time.

Secrets Papagayo Has 3 Black Sand Coves

Besides the aforementioned secret beach with virtually no footprints in sight, there are 2 separate black-sand coves actually on Papagayo property — one just steps from the main pool, and the other behind the spa.

While this Hyatt does offer its signature Preferred Club amenities, there is no private beach access or exclusive pool here — just a posh lounge with bangin’ cocktails.

Black sand cove at Secrets Papagayo

I absolutely loved both beaches because this is what made it feel like you’re actually in Costa Rica.

Off in the distance, the Gulf of Papagayo fades into hazy headlands, with even glimpses toward Nicaragua on a clear day, while the water stays calm enough for snorkeling or simply wading in with a drink in hand.

It was never too cold to enter; always inviting during the few times the swim-up bar ran out of barstools or when my time was up from my poolside cabana rental.

The Service Set This Resort Apart

I’ve stayed at my fair share of resorts across Mexico and the Caribbean, so I know how easy it is for service to feel rehearsed.

That’s what truly set Secrets Papagayo apart: the entire staff. Not once did I feel like just another face trying to chase the Pura Vida postcard.

From bartenders to tour guides to the sweet ladies making omelets each morning, everyone made you feel like you had a new friend — the kind who would actually remember you if you came back someday.

Squid-ink pasta and wine at Secrets Papagayo

I can’t think of another resort that was so consistently timely, either, whether it was late-night no-contact room service slicing the 45-minute estimate in half, or the shuttle pickups carrying you to other corners of the resort — a must since there are so many hills across the former Hilton property.

All you do is call from your room or press the shuttle button in any of the main buildings.

Food was surprisingly sensational too.

With all-inclusives having a serious moment right now, Secrets Papagayo proved why the trend makes sense when it’s done right.

Sure, plenty of resorts can keep plates full and drinks flowing, taking a quality over quantity approach, few make the food worth talking about after checkout.

Not the case here…

Between the fresh fish and a juicy ribeye from Seaside Grill that ranks among the best resort meals I’ve had in recent memory, this wasn’t filler food — it was a highlight.

Why I Always Fly Copa Airlines To Central America

Copa Airlines plane in sky

I fully realize not everyone reading this lives in Southern California, but Copa’s ribbon-cutting last year was a true game-changer for San Diego travelers.

If you’re unaware, San Diegans often fly out of Tijuana for trips to Mexico, Costa Rica, and El Salvador via Volaris, but who wants to be crammed in like a carry-on for hours on end?

Copa Airlines can take you to 80-plus destinations across Latin America and the Caribbean, likely connecting through Panama City, where the popular carrier’s Stopover Program now allows stays of up to 15 days at no additional cost.

That means you can turn one vacation into two, tacking on Panama’s Dubai-esque skyline, famous canal, beaches, rainforests, or islands without treating it like a throwaway layover.

Let me tell you: it’s impossible to have a bad time in Panama. I visited last year and have been singing its praises almost daily ever since, especially they surprised me with free Dreams cabin upgrades both times, so you never know when it’s your lucky day.

Since Copa’s Guanacaste route wasn’t an option for my trip, I flew into San Jose instead, Costa Rica’s much larger airport, and booked a private shuttle to the resort.

Dreams Cabin on Copa Airlines

Just know this isn’t some quick beach transfer. The drive to Secrets Papagayo is a cross-country haul, and highway traffic can turn those optimistic drive estimates into pure fiction.

Any way you divvy it up, travelers feel safe across Panama and Costa Rica, each scoring 85/100 on our Safety index:

**Travel Off Path was a guest of Secrets Papagayo, who helped with the creation of this itinerary by hosting some of our accommodations and attractions. Our opinions, recommendations, and suggestions remain our own.**





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