After testing this Garmin rival, I won’t use a smartwatch without a built-in flashlight again


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pros and cons

Pros

  • Integrated LED flashlight with a vibrant AMOLED touchscreen display.
  • Support for the extensive Polar Flow ecosystem.
  • 50m water resistance and MIL-STD-810H rating.
Cons

  • Plastic case and bezel.
  • Single frequency GPS.
  • No support for ECG or blood oxygen.

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It’s that time of year when people start noticing I have tan lines on both my wrists from wearing two watches. One has an integrated LED flashlight for daily use, and the other is a smartwatch. Thanks to Polar’s new Street X smartwatch, picking up a powerful sports watch with a dual-color LED flashlight is much easier at the low $250 price point, which beats existing LED-equipped watches by at least $150. 

Also: I tested the best sports watches in 2026: Here are the latest and greatest watches, no matter your budget

Once you use a sports watch with an LED flashlight, you won’t use another watch without one. I use the device at least once daily to find things in the dark, read restaurant menus, make a bathroom trip in the middle of the night with red-light mode, and light up my way through dark areas. 

If Apple, Google, or Samsung add an integrated LED flashlight to a smartwatch, I might be able to wear one watch, but we haven’t heard any such rumors yet.

Design

I spent the first couple of weeks with the Polar Street X without knowing the price point and just assuming it was about $400. There are some trade-offs in the design compared to other Polar watches, but I was shocked by how affordable the device was when I started drafting this review after testing it out. 

The watch is mostly made of a lightweight, bio-based polymer and features a Gorilla Glass display. The 22mm silicone band is flexible and comfortable. While the casing and bezel are plastic, the watch still looks and feels well constructed and durable.

Five buttons and a touchscreen display make it easy to use

Matthew Miller/ZDNET

The Polar Street X is water-resistant to 50 meters and certified to the MIL-STD-810H shock-resistant criteria, so it’s rugged and built to last. At just 1.7 ounces (48 grams), this is one of the lightest watches I’ve ever tested. With a diameter of 45mm, it can also work well for those with smaller wrists.

LED flashlight

Garmin was the first company to launch a smartwatch with an integrated LED flashlight, and the firm continues to lead the way with flashlight controls available within specific workouts so you can have red and white lights shining at intervals that match your running. Amazfit and then Suunto followed with integrated LED lights, and now it’s up to Coros to join the lighting party.

Once you have a LED flashlight on a watch you won't go back

Matthew Miller/ZDNET

Polar’s LED light is well integrated, requiring a single press of the top-left button. There are five physical buttons on the watch, including one for turning the light on and off. The right-side up and down buttons control four levels of white brightness and one red light. It’s great to see Polar launch with this lighting scheme. I use the red light at night to keep my night vision intact and not wake up my wife while she sleeps, and I wander the house.

Using Polar Flow

One reason I didn’t think the Street X was priced this low is that the data it captures very effectively supports the Polar Flow ecosystem. Cardio Load status, running power, the work/rest guide, FitSpark training guidance, nightly recharge, daily readiness, and so many more features are supported on the watch and through your smartphone connection into the Polar Flow app.

Also: I replaced my Whoop with a rival fitness band that has no monthly fees – and it’s nearly as good

Thankfully, the Polar Flow smartphone app has been redesigned and improved as well. The main Diary screen appears when you launch the app, with a host of metric summaries providing glanceable information. You can also easily toggle various metrics on and off in the settings. 

Other displays include training/testing with mapping so you can use your phone connected to the watch for a big screen tracking experience, an activity tab with all of your daily movements, a nightly recharge tab with exhaustive details of your sleep, and a more tab that has 15 different options for fully customizing the Polar experience.

The Polar Flow smartphone app is much better and provides detailed insights

Matthew Miller/ZDNET

As I’ve shared in the past, Polar provides extreme customization of your workout training views with support for more than 170 activities, so there is virtually no activity that cannot be tracked by the Street X. Dashboard views and custom watch faces are also part of the experience so no other Street X will look just like yours after you spend a bit of time customizing the watch for your lifestyle.

Daily usage

With Polar, I have come to expect premium pricing for its wearables and a rather frustrating smartphone application. The Polar Street X changes that perception with a capable sports watch, with an LED flashlight, and an updated Polar Flow smartphone application that propels Polar back to one of my favorite brands. 

The free training programs and customization options make the Street X a highly recommended sports watch for anyone looking to use a watch to track daily life and improve their performance.

An older generation heart rate monitor and GPS chip impacts the performance

Matthew Miller/ZDNET

GPS and heart rate tracking weren’t as accurate as those of watches at a comparable price point, such as the Coros Pace 4. The defining feature of this watch is its LED flashlight, but the customization options in Polar Flow are also compelling. The watch has a rugged design that may not appeal to those seeking a sleeker, lighter model.

Also: There’s a right way to wear your Apple Watch – and it affects your data

The Polar Street X lasted a week between charges, with a few sessions of running, rowing, and biking. Enabling always-on mode reduces the battery life, but you don’t need it on when a twist of the wrist turns on the display

ZDNET’s buying advice

The Polar Street X is a bit of a departure for Polar with non-premium materials, a previous-generation GPS receiver and heart rate sensor, and some compromises on functionality. The device has the first integrated LED flashlight for Polar and supports most of what Polar Flow offers, with a vast array of customization options. 

The Street X is a great first sports watch if you want one with a dedicated LED light, but just be aware of the compromises in positioning and heart rate accuracy. 





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There are a ton of laptops on the market at any given moment and almost all of those models are available in multiple configurations to match your performance and budget needs. If you’re feeling overwhelmed with options when looking for a new laptop, it’s understandable. To help simplify things for you, here are the main things you should consider when you start looking.

Price

The search for a new laptop for most people starts with price. If the statistics that chipmaker Intel and PC manufacturers hurl at us are correct, you’ll be holding onto your next laptop for at least three years. If you can afford to stretch your budget a little to get better specs, do it. That stands whether you’re spending $500 or more than $1,000. In the past, you could get away with spending less upfront with an eye toward upgrading memory and storage in the future. Laptop makers are increasingly moving away from making components easily upgradable, so again, it’s best to get as much laptop as you can afford from the start.

Generally speaking, the more you spend, the better the laptop. That could mean better components for faster performance, a nicer display, sturdier build quality, a smaller or lighter design from higher-end materials or even a more comfortable keyboard. All of these things add to the cost of a laptop. I’d love to say $500 will get you a powerful gaming laptop, for example, but that’s not the case. Right now, the sweet spot for a reliable laptop that handles average work, home office or school tasks is between $700 and $800 and a reasonable model for creative work or gaming is upward of about $1,000. The key is to look for discounts on models in all price ranges so you can get more laptop capabilities for less.

Operating system

Choosing an operating system is part personal preference and part budget. For the most part, Microsoft Windows and Apple MacOS do the same things (save for gaming, where Windows is the winner), but they do them differently. Unless there’s an OS-specific application you need, get the one you feel most comfortable using. If you’re not sure which that is, head to an Apple store or a local electronics store and test them out. Or ask friends or family to let you test theirs for a bit. If you have an iPhone or iPad and like it, chances are you’ll like MacOS, too.

In price and variety (and PC gaming), Windows laptops win. If you want MacOS, you’re getting a MacBook. Apple’s MacBooks regularly top our best lists, the least expensive one is the M1 MacBook Air for $999. It is regularly discounted to $750 or $800, but if you want a cheaper MacBook, you’ll have to consider older refurbished ones.

Windows laptops can be found for as little as a couple of hundred dollars and come in all manner of sizes and designs. Granted, we’d be hard-pressed to find a $200 laptop we’d give a full-throated recommendation to but if you need a laptop for online shopping, email and word processing, they exist.

If you are on a tight budget, consider a Chromebook. ChromeOS is a different experience than Windows; make sure the applications you need have a Chrome, Android or Linux app before making the leap. If you spend most of your time roaming the web, writing, streaming video or using cloud-gaming services, they’re a good fit.

Size

Remember to consider whether having a lighter, thinner laptop or a touchscreen laptop with a good battery life will be important to you in the future. Size is primarily determined by the screen — hello, laws of physics — which in turn factors into battery size, laptop thickness, weight and price. Keep in mind other physics-related characteristics, such as an ultrathin laptop isn’t necessarily lighter than a thick one, you can’t expect a wide array of connections on a small or ultrathin model and so on.

Screen

When deciding on a screen, there are a myriad number of considerations, like how much you need to display (which is surprisingly more about resolution than screen size), what types of content you’ll be looking at and whether you’ll be using it for gaming or creative work.

You really want to optimize pixel density; that is, the number of pixels per inch the screen can display. Although other factors contribute to sharpness, a higher pixel density usually means a sharper rendering of text and interface elements. (You can easily calculate the pixel density of any screen at DPI Calculator if you don’t feel like doing the math, and you can also find out what math you need to do there.) I recommend a dot pitch of at least 100 pixels per inch as a rule of thumb.

Because of the way Windows and MacOS scale for the display, you’re frequently better off with a higher resolution than you’d think. You can always make things bigger on a high-resolution screen, but you can never make them smaller — to fit more content in the view — on a low-resolution screen. This is why a 4K, 14-inch screen may sound like unnecessary overkill but may not be if you need to, say, view a wide spreadsheet.

If you need a laptop with relatively accurate color that displays the most colors possible or that supports HDR, you can’t simply trust the specs — not because manufacturers lie, but because they usually fail to provide the necessary context to understand what the specs they quote mean. You can find a ton of detail about considerations for different types of screen uses in our monitor buying guides for general purpose monitors, creators, gamers and HDR viewing.

Processor

The processor, aka the CPU, is the brains of a laptop. Intel and AMD are the main CPU makers for Windows laptops, with Qualcomm as a new third option with its Arm-based Snapdragon X processors. Both Intel and AMD offer a staggering selection of mobile processors. Making things trickier, both manufacturers have chips designed for different laptop styles, like power-saving chips for ultraportables or faster processors for gaming laptops. Their naming conventions will let you know what type is used. You can head over to Intel or AMD for explanations so you get the performance you want. Generally speaking, the faster the processor speed and the more cores it has, the better the performance will be.

Apple makes its own chips for MacBooks, which makes things slightly more straightforward. Like Intel and AMD, you’ll still want to pay attention to the naming conventions to know what kind of performance to expect. Apple uses its M-series chipsets in Macs. The entry-level MacBook Air uses an M1 chip with an eight-core CPU and seven-core GPU. The current models have M2-series silicon that starts with an eight-core CPU and 10-core GPU and goes up to the M2 Max with a 12-core CPU and a 38-core GPU. Again, generally speaking, the more cores it has, the better the performance.

Battery life has less to do with the number of cores and more to do with CPU architecture, Arm versus x86. Apple’s Arm-based MacBooks and the first Arm-based Copilot Plus PCs we’ve tested offer better battery life than laptops based on x86 processors from Intel and AMD.

Graphics

The graphics processor handles all the work of driving the screen and generating what gets displayed, as well as speeding up a lot of graphics-related (and increasingly, AI-related) operations. For Windows laptops, there are two types of GPUs: integrated (iGPU) or discrete (dGPU). As the names imply, an iGPU is part of the CPU package, while a dGPU is a separate chip with dedicated memory (VRAM) that it communicates with directly, making it faster than sharing memory with the CPU.

Because the iGPU splits space, memory and power with the CPU, it’s constrained by the limits of those. It allows for smaller, lighter laptops, but doesn’t perform nearly as well as a dGPU. There are some games and creative software that won’t run unless they detect a dGPU or sufficient VRAM. Most productivity software, video streaming, web browsing and other nonspecialized apps will run fine on an iGPU.

For more power-hungry graphics needs, like video editing, gaming and streaming, design and so on, you’ll need a dGPU; there are only two real companies that make them, Nvidia and AMD, with Intel offering some based on the Xe-branded (or the older UHD Graphics branding) iGPU technology in its CPUs.

Memory

For memory, I highly recommend 16GB of RAM (8GB absolute minimum). RAM is where the operating system stores all the data for running applications and it can fill up fast. After that, it starts swapping between RAM and SSD, which is slower. A lot of sub-$500 laptops have 4GB or 8GB, which in conjunction with a slower disk can make for a frustratingly slow Windows laptop experience. Also, many laptops now have the memory soldered onto the motherboard. Most manufacturers disclose this but if the RAM type is LPDDR, assume it’s soldered and can’t be upgraded.

Some PC makers will solder memory on and also leave an empty internal slot for adding a stick of RAM. You may need to contact the laptop manufacturer or find the laptop’s full specs online to confirm. Check the web for user experiences because the slot may still be hard to get to, it may require nonstandard or hard-to-get memory or other pitfalls.

Storage

You’ll still find cheaper hard drives in budget laptops and larger hard drives in gaming laptops. Faster solid-state drives have all but replaced hard drives in laptops and can make a big difference in performance. Not all SSDs are equally speedy, and cheaper laptops typically have slower drives. If the laptop only comes with 4GB or 8GB of RAM, it may end up swapping to that drive and the system may slow down quickly while you’re working.

Get what you can afford and if you need to go with a smaller drive, you can always add an external drive or two down the road or use cloud storage to bolster a small internal drive. The exception is gaming laptops: I don’t recommend going with less than a 512GB SSD unless you really like uninstalling games every time you want to play a new game.





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