5 Simple Tips For Keeping Your Car’s Depreciation To A Minimum






No matter how old you were, your first set of wheels likely holds a permanent place in your memory. For many of us, a car symbolized our first step toward independence. It probably wasn’t brand new or flashy, but it was ours. The reality likely hit sooner rather than later, however. The real cost of owning a car goes far beyond the monthly payment or even insurance. There’s gas, of course, along with maintenance, unexpected repairs, registration and inspection fees, and costs that rear their ugly head every few years, like new tires or a battery.

There’s one other factor that many buyers don’t consider: depreciation, or how much value your car will lose over time. It’s not just a myth that a new car loses some value as soon as you drive it off the lot. Most new cars lose up to 20% of their value in the first year alone, and by year five, many have lost up to 60%. There are steps you can take to potentially reduce depreciation before you even buy the car — research the brand, as some tend to retain their value better than others, and pick a vehicle type that is desired, such as pickup trucks and SUVs. There are also things you can do while you own the car to help maintain value. Here are five steps that are sure to give you a boost when it’s time to sell.

Regular maintenance

If you treat dashboard warning lights as optional suggestions, you may want to change your tune. When it comes to your vehicle, a little preventative care goes a long way, especially if you’re trying to minimize depreciation. Kelley Blue Book recommends that you regularly check fluid and coolant levels and tire pressure and depth. You should also keep a close eye on your wiper blades, check that your battery and cables have tight connections with no corrosion, and change your oil every 7,500 to 10,000 miles on modern vehicles, following the schedule outlined in your manual. If your car is older, you will have to change the oil more frequently.

If the check engine light appears on your dashboard, be sure to have your vehicle inspected by a mechanic as soon as possible. Follow the maintenance schedule recommended by the automaker, and keep meticulous records that you can share when you’re ready to sell or trade in your vehicle. If a mechanic or the dealership recommends a service that you aren’t sure you need, seek out a second opinion. You can also price out expensive repairs and services to find the best deal, but be sure you’re using a reputable mechanic or repair shop.

Looks matter

We’re taught that it’s what on the inside that counts, but when it comes to your car, both the interior and exterior condition matter. To help your car maintain as much of its original value as possible, experts recommend that you clean the interior regularly. Vacuum every few months, and remove the floor mats to clean underneath those as well. Avoid using cleaners with harsh chemicals, and be careful when you dust or clean the dashboard and infotainment system to avoid scratching or damaging the surface. If you have leather seats, use leather cleaner and conditioner to keep them soft and supple.

If you can’t regularly park in a garage, aim for a covered or shaded parking spot. Wash the exterior regularly. Bird droppings, tree sap, road salt and other chemicals are tough on the paint and can even lead to rust spots. Don’t use abrasive sponges or towels, and use two buckets if you choose to handwash — one for soapy water and one to rinse your cloth or mitt. Rinse the soap off thoroughly, and use a clean, microfiber cloth to dry your vehicle.

Avoid EVs

About 6.5% of new car sales are EVs, and there are many benefits to making the switch to a fully electric vehicle. The most obvious, of course, is saving on fuel costs. While there are costs associated with charging, EV drivers typically save money, especially if they charge at home during off-peak hours. Electric vehicles are also kinder to the environment, producing zero tailpipe emissions, and often offer superior performance, with quick acceleration and great stability. If depreciation is one of your top concerns, however, you probably want to avoid buying an EV, at least for now.

Electric vehicles depreciate faster than gas-powered vehicles – much faster. While a typical car can lose up to 20% of its value in the first year of ownership, an EV may lose up to 40%. After two years, an EV may be worth less than half of its original price. Electric vehicles depreciate faster for several reasons: battery health, the speed at which technology is advancing, high MSRPs, charging capabilities and infrastructure, insurance costs, and even just basic supply and demand.

Some models will depreciate faster than others, so if you want to buy an EV, be sure to do your research. Recharged recommends that you avoid luxury EVs and stick with popular midsize EVs that offer long driving ranges.

Watch your mileage

Odometer milestones can be fun. Surely we aren’t the only ones that took a picture at 999 or 54,321. But all those miles really eat into a car’s resale value. The average American drives 42 miles per day. Even if you’re only doing that on weekdays, that’s almost 11,000 annually, not including weekend driving and road trips. Unfortunately, the more miles you put on your vehicle, the faster it depreciates. Of course, we’re not suggesting you quit driving to work or school, but there are a few steps you can take to limit your mileage.

First, combine your errands when possible. Have a doctor’s appointment? Stop in at the grocery store or post office on your way home. If you can complete your errand online rather than visiting a brick-and-mortar location, do that instead. Carpool when possible, or use public transportation if it’s available. If working from home is an option even one day a week, that could potentially save you thousands of miles every year. You can also set your GPS to always use the most efficient route, rather than the shortest. It may take you an extra few minutes to reach your destination, but it could save you some wear and tear and miles on your car.

Avoid customization

Money may not buy happiness, but it can buy an aftermarket exhaust system or a crazy custom paint job. Just don’t expect a return on your investment when you’re ready to sell your car. In fact, Kelley Blue Book warns that personalizing your vehicle limits your potential buyers and can actually decrease the value of your car.

Avoid modifications that change the body of your vehicle, such as a new spoiler. Loud mufflers also tend to be unpopular, and while you may appreciate an engine modification, it can turn away potential buyers down the road. Any modification that makes your car stand out from the pack, is costly to maintain, or is done on the cheap may have a significant impact on the value of your car.

If you want to personalize your vehicle, stick to inexpensive mods that have a better chance of increasing its value or, even better, that are easy to undo before you sell. If your car is older and boasts a dated entertainment system, an upgrade that adds more modern conveniences such as Bluetooth or wireless connectivity will likely pay off. New tires are always a wise investment, and you can dress up the exterior with fun magnets or removable decals. Avoid stickers that may be difficult to remove or can damage the paint. Inside, you can add personality with seat covers, a steering wheel cover and covers for the knobs and gear shift, just be sure to remove them before you try to sell your car.

Our methodology

To select tips for minimizing your car’s depreciation, we stuck with the old adage of keeping it simple. Our intent was to compile easy, actionable tips to help any owner, whether their car is brand new or they’ve driven it for several years. Because some factors that affect depreciation are out of your control, such as the vehicle’s age and its safety and convenience features, we focused only on depreciation factors that owners can manage.

We also sought out reliable resources such as Kelley Blue Book, which is an expert in automotive valuation, and retailers specializing in used vehicles.





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Recent Reviews






There are certain engine configurations that are known even to those whose interest in engines is minimal. For instance, most people will know what makes a V-engine a V-engine, and even the differences between an in-line and flat engine

One engine design trait that’s perhaps less well-known is also related to the engine block, but not to with how the cylinders are arranged in the engine, rather with how they’re supported and cooled. When looking at this aspect of engine design, there are really three main types of engine block to look at. At the extremes are closed-deck and open-deck engine blocks, with some modern engines taking a halfway house approach with a semi-closed design. 

Let’s start by defining what an engine deck is. Essentially, the engine deck is that part of the block that the head gasket sits on, and the engine head attaches to. This means that an inline engine with a single line of cylinders will have one deck, whereas a V-configuration with two banks of cylinders will have two decks. 

Now that we understand that, we can begin to discuss the differences between closed-deck and open-deck engine blocks. In an open-deck engine, there is open space around the top of the cylinders that allows the coolant to circulate more freely. In a closed-deck design, in case you haven’t guessed it by now, the deck features extra material that offers less in the way of cooling, but it does support the cylinders more rigidly. Let’s pop the cylinder head off and have a closer look at these engine block types and why they matter more than you may think. 

Open-deck engines are cool, but flawed

For engine makers, there are definite advantages to open-deck designs — they cost less to manufacture when compared to closed-deck engines, and keep the engine cooler by exposing more of the surface area of the cylinder to the cooling liquid. 

However, all this open space around the cylinders is all very well and good when looking at cooling and manufacturing complexity — but cracks start to appear (sometimes literally) when we look at other aspects of closed-deck engine blocks. While it’s unfair to call open-deck engines unreliable and leave it at that, there are trade-offs in the design, and these become more noticeable in high-performance situations.

Essentially, the lack of material at the top of the engine deck means the engine is less structurally rigid right at the point where it meets some of the most extreme forces engines have to cope with — the combustion point at the top of the cylinder.

If you removed the head from an open-deck design and look down at the deck, this structural weakness is visible. From this viewpoint, the cylinders look separate from the rest of the engine block, with the gap between the two being used for coolant, as some open-deck designs have limited support at either end of the cylinder bank. While this gives more space for coolant to move freely, the downside is that it also does the same for the cylinder. Over time, even the limited movements of cylinders can weaken the head gasket and bring all the associated troubles that follow such a failure. 

Why some engines use closed- and semi-closed deck designs

Open-deck engine blocks are optimized for cooling and manufacturing efficiency. However, incorporate such a configuration in a high-revving, turbocharged brute of an engine and, well, it could end very badly. This is why such engines will usually use a closed-deck configuration. 

In a closed-deck engine, the open spaces around the cylinders of an open deck are filled with additional material. Obviously, the removal of such space and the flexibility it gives to the cylinders substantially strengthens the engine block. This is why some people fill engine blocks with concrete — it removes the flexibility afforded by the presence of cooling chambers. This is especially important for high-performance engines, but to call it overkill for the family runabout is not overstating the case. 

However, and the more observant among you will be there by now, filling an engine’s cooling cavities with material may add strength — but at the expense of cooling efficiency. This is why many modern turbocharged engines or higher-performance engines use a halfway house design in the form of semi-closed decks. 

Semi-closed decks are a compromise design that offers more rigidity to the cylinders by adding more support points. These supports are usually at the top of the cylinder. For instance, while there are pros and cons to Subaru’s EJ20 engine, the company released a version with a semi-closed deck with four additional support points, which should make it less prone to bore distortion. Ultimately, open-deck and closed-deck engine blocks represent design decisions based on the demands the engine is expected to handle. 





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