Battery life on Bluetooth speakers is not always what you think it is


With Bluetooth speakers (especially portable ones), battery life is an area that I don’t think gets enough attention.

Considering this a product you’ll be taking with you on your outdoor adventures, you will a) want to make sure it’s fully charged and b) that it lasts for as long as it says it does.

That’s not always the case.

What the brand says on its website and packaging is likely true, but there’s small print that buyers often overlook, resulting in performance that’s not always what you expect.

Is it the brand’s fault for not fully disclosing the details around battery life, or an issue that’s more complicated than just that?

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Very hush hush

This has always been an issue for me, but in reviewing a number of Bluetooth speakers from JBL and Marshall, it highlighted the issue more.

Every reviewer has their approach to assessing battery life. Some will take the brand at its word and, in their review, declare the same figure. Others will use the speaker as their main one, and while they’re not totting up the exact hours, they’ll generally monitor how long (over several days) the battery life has lasted before the speaker needs a recharge.

Others will go into more depth but have different approaches. Speaking for myself, I use my own Spotify playlist, which is a library of all the tracks I’ve liked on the service since… forever. I’ll put it on shuffle so (in theory) it should never be the same tracks playing in the same order. There’s nothing scientific about it; I just prefer the variation that, in my head, mimics the different tastes of tracks that people might play on their speakers at any time. You might think that’s nonsense, but it’s my nonsense.

Sonos Play hero
Image Credit (Trusted Reviews)

Most of the time I leave this playing at around 50% volume, and check in every hour to see how much battery has been depleted. I do not play the speaker until the battery dies. I’ll then take an average and calculate how much that would be and see if it adds up to the brand’s claimed battery life. Most of the time, it does not.

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This is because when brands test battery life, they’re often testing at lower volume. The drivers inside a speaker generate magnetic fields that feed an electrical signal into the drivers, the push and pull motion of the drivers that’s converted into the sound energy that you hear. At higher volumes there’s obviously a greater sense of loudness, more energy being fed into the drivers and therefore more energy used – and vice versa for lower volumes.

JBL Grip speaker
Image Credit (Trusted Reviews)

So technically speaking, it’s not as if brands are telling a lie. But if you’re like me, you’re playing music at 50% volume, if not higher. When you first turn on a speaker, it’s often at its default level. Rarely have I ever thought of lowering the volume from that point.

So if the volume is set at 50% by default, why bother testing at lower volumes? That I’m not altogether sure of. I could be cynical and say it’s for the marketing, but I suspect the sound has been tuned at a certain volume and then scaled to make sure the drivers offer a similar response across a range of volumes – high and low.

But still, why not just make it clearer that the volume is taken from a specific level?

No universal method

This has become a problem recently has brands seem to have a different approach to calculating the battery life for speakers. They don’t necessarily use a universal method. What JBL does is probably different from Sony, from Marshall, from Sonos, from Bose.

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The equipment used is likely different based on what they think their customer base is most likely to use. So what can we do about it?

I have no idea.

Marshall Kilburn III side view
Image Credit (Trusted Reviews)

There’s no incentive for anything to change; there aren’t any repercussions because, technically, the speaker can achieve that battery life – just probably not at the volume you’d normally play it at. If you complain that the battery life is not that good, they’re likely to ask you what volume you’re playing music at.

I should be fair and say that there are times when I’ve used my approach and battery life has been right on the money. But, in general, I think that audio brands should be a little upfront about what their speakers are truly capable of. I want a speaker to last, but it needs to meet the target in the first place.



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There are a ton of laptops on the market at any given moment and almost all of those models are available in multiple configurations to match your performance and budget needs. If you’re feeling overwhelmed with options when looking for a new laptop, it’s understandable. To help simplify things for you, here are the main things you should consider when you start looking.

Price

The search for a new laptop for most people starts with price. If the statistics that chipmaker Intel and PC manufacturers hurl at us are correct, you’ll be holding onto your next laptop for at least three years. If you can afford to stretch your budget a little to get better specs, do it. That stands whether you’re spending $500 or more than $1,000. In the past, you could get away with spending less upfront with an eye toward upgrading memory and storage in the future. Laptop makers are increasingly moving away from making components easily upgradable, so again, it’s best to get as much laptop as you can afford from the start.

Generally speaking, the more you spend, the better the laptop. That could mean better components for faster performance, a nicer display, sturdier build quality, a smaller or lighter design from higher-end materials or even a more comfortable keyboard. All of these things add to the cost of a laptop. I’d love to say $500 will get you a powerful gaming laptop, for example, but that’s not the case. Right now, the sweet spot for a reliable laptop that handles average work, home office or school tasks is between $700 and $800 and a reasonable model for creative work or gaming is upward of about $1,000. The key is to look for discounts on models in all price ranges so you can get more laptop capabilities for less.

Operating system

Choosing an operating system is part personal preference and part budget. For the most part, Microsoft Windows and Apple MacOS do the same things (save for gaming, where Windows is the winner), but they do them differently. Unless there’s an OS-specific application you need, get the one you feel most comfortable using. If you’re not sure which that is, head to an Apple store or a local electronics store and test them out. Or ask friends or family to let you test theirs for a bit. If you have an iPhone or iPad and like it, chances are you’ll like MacOS, too.

In price and variety (and PC gaming), Windows laptops win. If you want MacOS, you’re getting a MacBook. Apple’s MacBooks regularly top our best lists, the least expensive one is the M1 MacBook Air for $999. It is regularly discounted to $750 or $800, but if you want a cheaper MacBook, you’ll have to consider older refurbished ones.

Windows laptops can be found for as little as a couple of hundred dollars and come in all manner of sizes and designs. Granted, we’d be hard-pressed to find a $200 laptop we’d give a full-throated recommendation to but if you need a laptop for online shopping, email and word processing, they exist.

If you are on a tight budget, consider a Chromebook. ChromeOS is a different experience than Windows; make sure the applications you need have a Chrome, Android or Linux app before making the leap. If you spend most of your time roaming the web, writing, streaming video or using cloud-gaming services, they’re a good fit.

Size

Remember to consider whether having a lighter, thinner laptop or a touchscreen laptop with a good battery life will be important to you in the future. Size is primarily determined by the screen — hello, laws of physics — which in turn factors into battery size, laptop thickness, weight and price. Keep in mind other physics-related characteristics, such as an ultrathin laptop isn’t necessarily lighter than a thick one, you can’t expect a wide array of connections on a small or ultrathin model and so on.

Screen

When deciding on a screen, there are a myriad number of considerations, like how much you need to display (which is surprisingly more about resolution than screen size), what types of content you’ll be looking at and whether you’ll be using it for gaming or creative work.

You really want to optimize pixel density; that is, the number of pixels per inch the screen can display. Although other factors contribute to sharpness, a higher pixel density usually means a sharper rendering of text and interface elements. (You can easily calculate the pixel density of any screen at DPI Calculator if you don’t feel like doing the math, and you can also find out what math you need to do there.) I recommend a dot pitch of at least 100 pixels per inch as a rule of thumb.

Because of the way Windows and MacOS scale for the display, you’re frequently better off with a higher resolution than you’d think. You can always make things bigger on a high-resolution screen, but you can never make them smaller — to fit more content in the view — on a low-resolution screen. This is why a 4K, 14-inch screen may sound like unnecessary overkill but may not be if you need to, say, view a wide spreadsheet.

If you need a laptop with relatively accurate color that displays the most colors possible or that supports HDR, you can’t simply trust the specs — not because manufacturers lie, but because they usually fail to provide the necessary context to understand what the specs they quote mean. You can find a ton of detail about considerations for different types of screen uses in our monitor buying guides for general purpose monitors, creators, gamers and HDR viewing.

Processor

The processor, aka the CPU, is the brains of a laptop. Intel and AMD are the main CPU makers for Windows laptops, with Qualcomm as a new third option with its Arm-based Snapdragon X processors. Both Intel and AMD offer a staggering selection of mobile processors. Making things trickier, both manufacturers have chips designed for different laptop styles, like power-saving chips for ultraportables or faster processors for gaming laptops. Their naming conventions will let you know what type is used. You can head over to Intel or AMD for explanations so you get the performance you want. Generally speaking, the faster the processor speed and the more cores it has, the better the performance will be.

Apple makes its own chips for MacBooks, which makes things slightly more straightforward. Like Intel and AMD, you’ll still want to pay attention to the naming conventions to know what kind of performance to expect. Apple uses its M-series chipsets in Macs. The entry-level MacBook Air uses an M1 chip with an eight-core CPU and seven-core GPU. The current models have M2-series silicon that starts with an eight-core CPU and 10-core GPU and goes up to the M2 Max with a 12-core CPU and a 38-core GPU. Again, generally speaking, the more cores it has, the better the performance.

Battery life has less to do with the number of cores and more to do with CPU architecture, Arm versus x86. Apple’s Arm-based MacBooks and the first Arm-based Copilot Plus PCs we’ve tested offer better battery life than laptops based on x86 processors from Intel and AMD.

Graphics

The graphics processor handles all the work of driving the screen and generating what gets displayed, as well as speeding up a lot of graphics-related (and increasingly, AI-related) operations. For Windows laptops, there are two types of GPUs: integrated (iGPU) or discrete (dGPU). As the names imply, an iGPU is part of the CPU package, while a dGPU is a separate chip with dedicated memory (VRAM) that it communicates with directly, making it faster than sharing memory with the CPU.

Because the iGPU splits space, memory and power with the CPU, it’s constrained by the limits of those. It allows for smaller, lighter laptops, but doesn’t perform nearly as well as a dGPU. There are some games and creative software that won’t run unless they detect a dGPU or sufficient VRAM. Most productivity software, video streaming, web browsing and other nonspecialized apps will run fine on an iGPU.

For more power-hungry graphics needs, like video editing, gaming and streaming, design and so on, you’ll need a dGPU; there are only two real companies that make them, Nvidia and AMD, with Intel offering some based on the Xe-branded (or the older UHD Graphics branding) iGPU technology in its CPUs.

Memory

For memory, I highly recommend 16GB of RAM (8GB absolute minimum). RAM is where the operating system stores all the data for running applications and it can fill up fast. After that, it starts swapping between RAM and SSD, which is slower. A lot of sub-$500 laptops have 4GB or 8GB, which in conjunction with a slower disk can make for a frustratingly slow Windows laptop experience. Also, many laptops now have the memory soldered onto the motherboard. Most manufacturers disclose this but if the RAM type is LPDDR, assume it’s soldered and can’t be upgraded.

Some PC makers will solder memory on and also leave an empty internal slot for adding a stick of RAM. You may need to contact the laptop manufacturer or find the laptop’s full specs online to confirm. Check the web for user experiences because the slot may still be hard to get to, it may require nonstandard or hard-to-get memory or other pitfalls.

Storage

You’ll still find cheaper hard drives in budget laptops and larger hard drives in gaming laptops. Faster solid-state drives have all but replaced hard drives in laptops and can make a big difference in performance. Not all SSDs are equally speedy, and cheaper laptops typically have slower drives. If the laptop only comes with 4GB or 8GB of RAM, it may end up swapping to that drive and the system may slow down quickly while you’re working.

Get what you can afford and if you need to go with a smaller drive, you can always add an external drive or two down the road or use cloud storage to bolster a small internal drive. The exception is gaming laptops: I don’t recommend going with less than a 512GB SSD unless you really like uninstalling games every time you want to play a new game.





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